GARMENT DYED DYNEEMA

 

 

SERIES 02_GARMENT DYED DYNEEMA® is a reversible jacket made in the strongest and most durable lightweight fiber in the world. The result is a super light yet extremely tough Dyneema® flexible composite fabric with increased tear, puncture and abrasion resistance. STONE ISLAND has engineered a ready-to-dye version by bonding it to an exclusive performance membrane with an ultra-light nylon tela backing. The garments are cut and sewn, and the seams are entirely sealed by hand with Dyneema® re-enforced tape.
Before the garment dyeing procedure the jackets have to rest one week to allow the correct polymerization of the tape. One side shows the Dyneema® face, the other side shows the ultra-light nylon tela which takes the dye color along with all the other nylon components of the piece. The fold-away hood in the stand up collar can be worn on either side as well. The high level of artisanship involved in the process makes each garment unique and unrepeatable.
The limited edition jackets – 2 series of 50 pieces – are then garment dyed with 50 color recipes in the STONE ISLAND Color Laboratory.

ICE JACKET RESIN-T SHELL DOWN

 

 

 

The Ice Jacket Resin-T Shell Down, is an evolution of the iconic thermo-chromatic garment introduced for the first time in 1988. A very light shell in a translucent nylon tela changes colour according to temperature variations, due to a special thermo-chromatic coating. Inside the shell, the removable down jacket in coloured nylon creates further colour play.

 

STONE ISLAND HOUSE CHECK

 

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DEVELOPMENT

The initial objective in the development of the Stone Island House Check was to integrate the compass within the horizontal and vertical lines of a plaid pattern. This meant creating an intricate structure for the weave. As a result we decided to weave the pattern through a rare antique Jacquard Dobbcross fly shuttle loom, this allowed the structure to be woven at a slower pace allowing the loom to work with a delicate touch to coupe with the complexity of the design.
The pattern was woven as a double cloth, this meant interlacing two fabrics and weaving them at the same time. The compass part of the design was done on the under layer of the cloth and then pulled through the face of the fabric.
The end result was unexpected; the looms interpretation of the design gave emphasis to the reverse of the fabric in which the compass was laid out in a grid format (without the plaid background). The looms interpretation gave clarity to our initial creative vision. This interpretation became the grounding for the check pattern. From this point forward we worked on fine tuning the design and cloth.

 

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Since 1842 Dormeuil is one of the world’s finest manufactures of specialist fine worsted menswear suiting, jacketing and coating fabrics. Using the finest micro wools, 100% cashmere and wools blended with natural and noble fibres such as vicuna and silk. They have developed timeless and iconic fabrics that have cemented the company reputation across all five continents.
All of Dormeuil fabrics are produced in Huddersfield, England. Huddersfield has been synonymous with its fine woollen and worsted cloth manufacturing since the early 19th century with its craftsman passing down their skills from one generation to the next.

 

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STONE ISLAND NYLON METAL HOUSE CHECK  JACQUARD

 

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STONE ISLAND SPRING SUMMER 2016

 

 

CAMO

 

45135 DPM JACQUARD
Camouflage motif cotton/polyamide jacquard fabric, plated with dark resin. Garment over dyed.
DPM JACQUARD PLATED: The complexity and the resolution achievable with today’s advanced jacquard looms are the physical reflection of the digital age. Garment dyeing captures both high definition contrasts and subtle tonal shades for a multi-layer effect. The fabric surface is entirely plated with black resins. The result is a dimmed effect on the outside while the DPM motif expresses its complex tonal shades on the inside. A special agent was added to the dyeing bath for an anti-drop effect.

 

 

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GARMENT DYED PIXEL REFLECTIVE: Stone Island’s research introduces garment dyeing on reflective fabrics. The landmark iridescent Nylon Metal fabric is printed with a resin substance containing thousands of glass microspheres. The garment dyeing procedure lends extraordinary colours to the textile base while the Pixel Reflective printing provides it with a strong capacity to reflect even the weakest light sources. A special agent was added to the dyeing bath for an anti-drop effect.

 

 

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44537 WATER REPELLENT WOOL: 100% naturally water repellent wool. The specific fibre processing allowing increased yarn contractility and the ultra-tight compact density weaving with high temperature finishing make the fabric windproof, breathable and water repellent without the need of chemicals, coating or lamination techniques.

RCAMA Menswear  2011- 2013

The ‘Sound Series’ is a study of craftsmanship, quality and artisan textiles in British heritage through the medium of sound. These elements of British heritage and sound  formed the backbone of my research throughout my MA at The Royal College of Art. My aim was to present them as one in the context of menswear design and products.

British Heritage : During my MA at the RCA, I travelled across the UK from the Highlands of Scotland through the Outer Hebrides down into Yorkshire, the Midlands and the South of England seeking out unique British manufacturers. Spending time and working with these companies has given me enormous respect for their craft and has taught me the importance of the unique skills, knowledge and products Britain has to offer. I have been fortunate enough to visit and work with companies such as Harris Tweed Hebrides, Mackintosh, Abraham Moon & Sons, Bower Roebuck, W.T Johnson & Sons, Ferguson Polycom, Savile Clifford and Johnstons of Elgin. I have worked with each company to understand the particular processes involved in the manufacturing of their products, from the making of yarn, fabrics and cashmere knitwear, to footwear and handmade outerwear garments.

Sound : I have been experimenting with techniques to show the process of sound in visual form, working it through concepts and into product. The assistance of the companies mentioned above has enabled me to develop high quality British product with the concept of sound integrated into  fabric, form, and detail.

 

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Sound Series. series of outerwear and tailored structures, with the concept of sound integrated into fabric, form and detail. Built from thread to garment through unique British skill, knowledge and craftsmanship.

1. Soundwave Deconstruction

 

 

 

Soundwave Deconstruction

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2. Soundwave Geometric

Johnstons of Elgin

Johnstons of Elgin has been creating the finest woollen and cashmere cloth  since 1797.  Their development and production is spread across two mills, Elgin and Hawick. The Elgin mill produces the woven fabrics and the Hawick mill produces the Cashmere knitwear. I have worked with both mills in developing my concept through their woven fabric and cashmere knitwear.

 

 

 

cashmere development

Oversize Geometric

elgin cashmere

 

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3. Soundwave Reconstruction

 

 

 

Soundwave reconstruction

 

 

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4. Soundwave Distortion

Glendale Mill

Home to Bower Roebuck and Savile Clifford producers of the finest worsted and tailored cloths. The Mill rests in a valley beside a stream. Here cloth making has flourished for almost 500 years. Older then the  trees that give it shade this plot of land has supported generations of skilled Yorkshire people- many family names have remained on the payroll since the pre-Elizabethan times. Skills passed down from one generation to the next. I have been fortunate enough to spend time with these craftsman  and learn the basics of their skills.

 

glendale mill

Savile Clifford

I came across Savile Clifford by chance whilst spending time at Glendale mill.  Bower Roebuck is the parent company of Savile Clifford,  both utilise the modern weaving facilities of the mill to produce some of the worlds finest cloth. I have been working together with the design team at Savile Clifford the amazing Ben Jones and Hayley Cresswell in developing the sound fabrics : Deconstruction, Pinstripe Distortion and Check  Reconstruction.

 

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5. Soundwave Abstract

Harris Tweed

Harris Tweed is one of the most desirable wool textiles in the world and is the most iconic of all the tweeds. Produced exclusively in the Outer Hebrides of Scotland on the island of Harris and Lewis where it has been a way of life for centuries. Hand woven in the homes and sheds of the islanders, it is the work of artisans with skills passed down from one generation to the next. During my time at the Royal College of Art  I have  visited the island on a few occasions, to work closely with the weavers and  designers such as Ken Kenndy to learn about the fabric, the environment and the people & processes involved in the development of the tweed.

 

harris tweed

Harris Tweed Hebrides is one of the main producers of Harris Tweed on the Island, with them I have been developing the Abstract sound wave pattern. Working closely with their head designer Ken Kennedy, together we have developed  the pattern which creates the illusion subtle movement within the fabric. A shadow check.

 

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Below is the first sample of the Shadow check. I have also been working with a fabric finishing company   W.T Johnsons and sons from Huddersfield West Yorkshire, in developing a new finish for Harris Tweed which gives it a crisp modern finish.

 

shadow check 1st sample

 

abstract

 

 

Outerwear Structure Development

The sound fabrics have been bonded and  waterproofed  by Ferguson Polycom. They are then  hand crafted into outerwear structures  by Mackintosh.

 

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Contact Info:

email: asim.khan@network.rca.ac.uk

LinkedIn: http://uk.linkedin.com/pub/asim-khan/31/9a8/553

 

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